Goumukh–Tapovan

Goumukh/Tapovan (02 Nov – 12 Nov’06):

It was beginning of November when I started again for the Himalayas. The news from all sources confirmed a blizzard line condition & snowfall with sub-zero temperatures. My original plan to visit Goumukh / Tapovan had got delayed by one month and winter seemed to have progressed fast in the mountains.Under the circumstances, may be I could manage two of the five ‘Panch Kedars’, or may be go up to Chopta, Chandrashilla most certainly being out of bounds.

I had decided to go to Uttarkashi and check the conditions there. At least i would be able to pick some small treks, may be visit Nechiketa taal, or Dodi taal. And I wanted to visit NMI and check out their basic course in mountaineering.

And the temptation of visiting Vishwanath Temple was quite strong. I had missed it during my last trip. And there is a huge “Trishul” in front of the temple, sunk in the ground, whose base can’t be traced. And yet one can shake it with the pressure of the tiny finger!!With these thoughts in my mind i slung the rucksack over my back, clutched the hand bag and stepped on to the train to Haridwar.

And then i saw a trekking group getting into my compartment. It was a pleasant surprise to know that they too were aiming for Goumukh/Tapovan. So i was not the only desperate person around!! They had missed the best season due to office leave problems. Here began my loose association with that group, which would see us sleeping together, eating together for the next 7 days.

The train reached Haridwar late and all the buses to Uttarkashi had departed. So we stayed together at Haridwar and I showed them around. I have been to Haridwar a couple of times earlier and i have walked practically all its streets. I like Haridwar for its choice of food, the hustle & bustle in the market, the varieties of people and yet you feel peaceful here, no rush.. kind of relaxed & tranquil…After lunch we took the bus tickets. No direct buses were going to Gangotri in this time of the year, we booked the seats to Uttarkashi. That evening we saw the evening Aarti of Gangajee and then hiked to Mansha devi temple.

We retire early after dinner as we need to catch the bus early in the morning. I have got two aaloo parathas packed for the bus journey. During traveling i always try to pack some food where ever possible, one needs to be maintain sufficient energy levels…

We reach Uttaranchal in the afternoon. I was hoping to stay here and look around, i got a lot of time in hand so i am in no hurry. For that matter even this group has got 2 weeks and yet some of them are anxious to reach Gangotri. We found that normal transportation to Gangotri had stopped, no buses plying in that route at this time of the year. The Gangotri settlement being more or less shutdown with most people having moved down to Harshil or Uttarkashi. Only Dandi Aashram was open and we could stay there, that was our hope & beacon…

We hire a vehicle and set out a bit late in the afternoon after lunch. The boys had been hungry and a couple of them over stuffed themselves which naturally overflowed during the ride on the bends & curves:) In a while sun went down and chill set in. The canvas flaps of the Trax fluttered and cold air blew in as we sped towards Gangotri… It was full moon and ours was the lone vehicle on the road.

As night set in and cold started making its presence felt everyone started feeling uneasy… what if Dandi Aashram is closed? The driver had warned us that he would just drop us at Gangotri & flee back! The idea of spending a shivering night in the open in sub-zero temperatures is not a very comfortable one. We have everything to cook food except Kerosene to lit the stove!!

Finally we decide to spend the night somewhere en route, where ever we can find a hotel open. So we found Dharali. The hotel was warm & cozy, the rooms had wooden walls, floors & ceilings. After some searching the cook was located and he cooked rice & vegetable for us. Served hot it tasted delicious. Being a stranger with this group, I had decided to go for a single room and landed up in a room of concrete & plaster by the river side. It was mid-night when i wake up to find myself cold & freezing. Since i had a sleeping bag, i had given away my quilts to the driver. And now at this unholy hour of the night i was suddenly worried whether the new sleeping bag would suffice or whether i was going to freeze to death!! Anyways, i find something to cover myself some more and soon i am asleep… The lesson learnt was never to sleep alone in freezing temperatures, more people means more warmth…

We wake up early in the morning and watch the sun rise as tea is brewed in the kitchen. It appears that “Ram Teri Ganga Maili ho gayee” (the movie with Mandakini in the controversial bathing scene…) was shot here. we go to see that temple. It is by the river and is sinking because of a loose ground. Every night the water rises inside the temple courtyard, and then recedes in the morning taking all the offerings & flowers away, leaving the temple clean.

After tea/biscuits (no biscuits for me as i am given up sugar for a year, i dig into my stock of cashews) we start off to Gangotri and reach there early.

There are two persons standing in the parking area, apparently from a lodge nearby. so may be one lodge is open still. Rest of the town appears deserted. We reach Dandi aashram after taking a unnecessary detour with nobody to show us the right way. Menu boards dangle over shuttered restaurants, claiming all kinds of delicacies!! I wonder how the town would look earlier in the season bustling with people, the temple bell tolling and aroma of tasty food in the air… BSNL has a tower here, but it is also shutdown for the winter. We are already cut off from civilization…

The aashram is spacious but few people around. No food also. We repack our rucksacks with the essentials, leaving behind extra stuff in a locked room. And we leave by 10am in the morning for Bhojwasa. Gangotri is already 3140 meters and we are heading for 3792 meters at Bhojwasa with almost no acclimatization…Couple of us lead the way, stopping by the closed Gangotri Temple to offer prayers. As we wait for the rest of the group, we see them higher up in the hills, apparently they have found another way… We catch the steep flight of stairs by Temple’s side…and reach them soon…

After a couple of hours of trekking we are just making 2km/hr with numerous stops for rest & photo sessions. We got to cover a total 14 km. At this pace we will reach Bhojwasa by night, and I am afraid that when the sun goes down it is going to be very cold.

Once we reach the first deserted tea-stalls I decide to push the pace and in a while i am all alone. The sun is bright and the trail is clear along the long valley. At places I can see herds of Deers grazing with the dominant male staring at me bleary eyed. I must say that these were a pretty healthy bunch, you don’t see such types in the Zoo…

 

Trekking solo has its risks… At one place i am definitely uncomfortable and break a stick from the pine shrub to defend myself, just in case :))These are just deers, on some routes the possibilities of bears & lions is also there. May be i should get myself a good folding knife, not that it is going to be any good… still… at least better than bare hands & nails to defend oneself…I reached Chirbasa by 1.45pm. The trail came & disappeared in this square clearing with metal skeletons of deserted tea shops. This place is quite wooded. One concrete shed is there is the center. I have my snacks and look around for the trail going to Bhojwasa.I find it hidden behind a outcrop of rock. I am not at all sure… but there are many foot-prints, they are my only guide… i wonder… yet it is no point waiting for the rest of the group, i might wait & wait and they may not appear also… (it appears that by this time three of the boys had given up and were walking back to Gangotri and one boy was running up & down ferrying the message between the two separating groups!)

The last couple of kilometers to Bhojwasa is landslide prone & kind of tricky. At places the 12 inch wide trail was overrun by landslides, and one misstep would see u down a few hundred meters… kind of crazy to be alone under such circumstances. I realize what it means when they say making your way through… And then at one place the narrow trail is broken, a chunk had just broken away and u see the abyss below… one side u have the mountain, the other side a sheer drop and in front a hole and an outcrop of rock blocking your way. hmmmmmm… kind of tricky. I takeoff my backpack & swing it, and it lands safely on the other… it could as easily have rolled over the edge… Then i gently jump across. The soil holds… and i am home free…After more than an hour’s trek, I finally cross the bend and am glad to see the tiny settlement of Bhojwasa as the sun prepares to slide behind the mountains. There are two guys sitting there waving their hand to me and shouting something.

It appears that they want me to circle around the settlement and come down their side. I spend a few moments wondering. I am dead tired carrying my 10kg backpack across 14 km and every meter counts. I wonder if there is a broken bridge somewhere in between which won’t let me take the easy path down & across. Anyway, it will be worse if i go down & then have to climb back again. So i take the long detour.They have got a log fir burning, and i take their permission to share the heat. As i sit on the burning log i feel a bit guilty, feeling as if i am sitting on a burning body. I wonder about my conscious, someday it might freeze me to death! One guy brings me hot tea and i share my sweets with them. It appears that they belong to some Government Department office there (a fiber cabin with a couple of rooms and a toilet). One of them also doubles as guide. We been desperately looking for a guide but had not found one in Gangotri. He said he will take us to Tapovan in the morning & bring us back by evening.

I feel better, may be i will reach Tapovan after all!! There was a group of Spanish staying at the aashram whom he had taken to Tapovan that day. On checking with them I found them happy & satisfied and told me that view at Tapovan was quite fabulous… I take my leave and head for the Lal Baba Aashram and take a room for myself and rest of the group, conditionally on their arrival of course.In the dark (no electricity, the aashram has a single solar rechargeable lantern) I open my sleeping back and slid in pulling the aashram supplied quilt over. I miss my torch which I had modified to use white LED just before i embarked on this trip, but on checking at Gangotri i found it was not working anymore. In a while the shivering stops and i am warm & cozy… The rest of the group arrived after an hour or more. I hadn’t checked my watch what time i arrived, the rest of the group arrived around 5pm. And they were tired to the bone and cold. One by one they all crept under the blankets & lay still for a long time…

Dinner was a torturous affair at 7pm with nobody willing to get out of the warmth. We had a simple hot meal in the aashram kitchen over some small talk. Next day we had a 5km+4km trek to Goumukh & Tapovan, and i was worried. The groups energy level was pretty low and the lack of acclimatisation had made its contribution.I really wanted to go and told them that i would go alone if necessary. Rarely does one get such chance & lovely clear weather. After some discussion & popping painkillers everybody decides to try for Goumukh at least. There after people not feeling well could return back and the rest free to carry on to Tapovan.

Next morning we answered nature’s call in nature… The river flowed lovely, having just melted from the glacier near by… some ice still floating and some sticking to its banks…the breeze was steady and cold, having just kissed the icy peaks & carrying the chill in its womb… the sky was a clear blue… We could see the glacier in a hazy distance and a little further Tapovan beckoned…

Well it was all nice and beautiful until one exposed one’s bottoms… and the hands froze as soon as pulled out from the warmth of the gloves… Unloading oneself in an experience to remember:))) I must remember to carry warm water next time…

Anyway, after breakfast & tea we set out at 8am in the morning, after the frost on the track having melted. We walked slowly to Goumukh and prayed at the small open temple there.
And we moved on, nobody remembered to return back from here, the issue never arose. Soon we are trekking on the glacier but it look like solid rock. Lots of debris, dust & rocks are strewn across and ice is hidden at most places. Yet it is very much a glacier and u can see the rock solid ice jutting out at several places.

One person who visited this place earlier had commented that he could hear Mother Ganges flowing below, but i didn’t even get a hint.Soon we are across and the going gets tricky. We are walking on a a loose crumbling mountain. One mis-step and one would find one’s head banging across rocks on the way down. After a while the guide declares that we have now reached the last & most treacherous stretch (last 150 meters climb). Here he tells us how a foreigner slipped and fell to death.I think he was scaring us! He suggests we return back as the group was not fit to attempt a climb to Tapovan and return back the same day. If a few of us are willing to climb then we will need to spend the night at Tapovan. what to say… time is such a flirty thing… drag your feet and suddenly it is too late… the lack of acclimatisation had finally started showing on some very ashen faces…And before we vote, we find that a few members of the group has turned tail and started walking back!! The possibility of getting lost in this place without a guide is just about a certainty and the consequences unthinkable. We decide to take a rest, have snacks, click some photographs and walk back…At Goumukh the guide left us to return at our easy pace. Here on the trail is very clear and doesn’t need a guide. Some more photography session…

Well, anyone wanting hot lunch had better scramble to the aashram before 2.30 which was the deadline for lunch at aashram. Pretty soon the whole group had disappeared behind the hills and only us two seniors(meaning in 30’s! rest of the group was early 20’s) walking at a slow pace. When we reach aashram it was well past 3 pm and a delicious ‘khidri‘ was ready to be served…

The next day we returned back to Gangotri Dandi Aashram to find the three deserters extremely well kept & looked after!! They had managed to get kerosene & made ‘khidri‘. But then Aashram’s Swamijee had returned followed by a flock of devotees and a truck load of food stuff and sweats. And finding these three kids in his aashram, he had pampered them with lots of sweets & food stuffs…“what a shame…not just nose… i lost my neck…” rues a boy, feeling ashamed for abandoning the trek midways and seeing us back with wondrous experience & sights.

We collect our stuffs. The driver has also arrived as promised. We start at 2pm and have a nice hot bath mid-ways at Gangnani hot water spring. After a nice lunch there we set out again & reach Uttarkashi as darkness sets in.

[ Published under the author’s permission ]

[ Original publication at www.sk-footloose.blogspot.com on January 03, 2007–the readers are requested to express their comments on the original Blog as mentioned above ]

 

Mount Kailash Parikrama and Wrap up – Part 5

24th June 2005: Day 1 of Parikrama , Darchen to Drira Phuk

The first thing in the morning that we wanted to see was clear weather and it was indeed a clear morning. But it was very chilly as the wind blowing was strong.
It was Parikrama day(Kora)( circumambulation around Mount Kailash). A 3 day trek which would pass through some of the most secluded regions of Tibet.

Map showing Parikrama of Mount Kailash(Courtesy : ecotrek.com)

Many who felt that they would not be able to complete the Parikrama of 52 kms, stayed back. Many decided to trek the 1st day and return back the next day to Darchen. The rest, who were game for the 3 day trek were getting geared up. We were taken west to Tarboche(Yamadwar) which was a 20 min drive from our hotel.

En route to Tarboche(Yamadwar)

From Tarboche we could see the mammoth south face of Mount Kailash peeping above the canyon walls.The significant feature of Tarboche is a tall, graceful flagpole. It is festooned, like a maypole, with hundreds of prayer flags.

South Face of Mount Kailash from Tarboche

That’s me at Tarboche in front of Mount Kailash(South Face)

We were allotted our porters and my porter was an old Tibetan man. His name was Nawang. I felt awkward to give him my backpack as he 60 + and I was just 1/3rd of his age by then. But then, that’s his bread and butter. Yaks weren’t available that day, so our luggage was also carried by porters.

Me and my porter

So then, we started our trek of 14 kms (approx) from Tarboche to Drira Phuk (4890m/16039 feet). Buddhists and Hindus make clockwise circuits while Bonpo pilgrims make anticlockwise circuits.
The trek trail was pretty straight with occasional ups and downs. But we were tested to our limits by the wind. It blew in opposite direction with gale force and it sure did give us a hard time. We were walking in the Lha Chu valley which means ‘Divine river” with Mount Kailash to our right (west face) and a small stream to our left.

West face of Mount Kailash

Lha Chu valley

We reached a small rest house where we had our lunch and then resumed our trek to Drira Phuk.

We could now clearly see some portion of the north face of Mount Kailash along with the West face. It was like a pyramid; the long and straight edge pointing towards us, west face to the right and North face to the left of the edge.

West and North face of Mount Kailash(pic courtesy: Prachee)

Around 4 pm, we crossed a small stream which was actually flowing from the base of Mount Kailash. The view we got of Mount Kailash after crossing the stream was to die for. The North face of the giant within touching distance. The best possible view.

North face of Mount Kailash after stream crossing(pic courtesy: Prachee 2006 Yatra)

North face of Mount Kailash ( During our trip, 2005)

I’m sorry, I have failed miserably to find words to describe what I saw. I can only say that my heart skipped a beat for the 5th time, this time not figuratively but literally:)

Our camp was already ready and I waited for others to arrive including my dad. After their arrival I decided to go up the hill from where I could get a better view of the North Face. The climb was pretty tough because I had already done 14 kms that day. When I reached the top, I kept gazing at the summit, a heavenly cone of ice and snow and the mountain itself. There is a peculiar aura that probably exists in this place which keeps u energized all the time.

Closer to North Face of Mount Kailash

The North face of Mount Kailash is almost vertical making it difficult for the snow to settle down at some places. The glossy black look of the mountain distinguishes it from the others which are brownish in colour. I wanted to freeze the moment forever. It was magical.

I met a man up there who wanted to go right near the base of Mount Kailash and touch the Mountain. He asked me whether I was willing to accompany him. Why not, I said without a frown.
We walked a few paces ahead and we came across a small glacier.

That’s me in front of Mount Kailash(North Face)

But it was getting darker by the minute. All the peaks had turned dark except Mount Kailash which was bright yellow. We decided to walk back as it was unsafe and by the time I reached the camp, Mount Kailash was light golden in colour.25th June 2005 : 2nd day of Parikrama,Drira Phuk to Sabje Dratok via Dolma Pass

We got up at 4:30 am as we had to cross Dolma pass, 6.4 kms away at 5630m/ 18460 feet. It was bitterly cold and chilly. The gloves I wore were of no use. My fingers had lost the sense of touch. Mount Kailash was white in colour owing to the Moonlight that reflected off the snow and ice.
Our guide, briefed us about the path ahead. At 5 am, still dark, having heavy heads, we were off with the most arduous day of trek. A total distance of 22 kms which would involve a 700 m slope ascent and an 800 m descent, preceding and succeeding Dolma La respectively.
Within 10 mins, we crossed a bridge over a small icy stream and were rightly heading eastward.

Bridge over a small stream

Once we crossed the bridge, we could see the trail gaining height gradually. It looked like a monumental task for the oldies. We trudged our way up the slope towards Shivastal, gasping for every single molecule of oxygen that was present in the rarefied air.

En route to Shivastal

The porters were not only carrying our backpacks but also were helping us to make good progress. Suddenly, one of our group members said aloud, “Guys, we are at 5000 m.” That pumped me up and I soon reached a point from where I could see all the people making their way up. Out popped the handycam and I kept shooting till they reached me.

Now, the peaks started turning golden again including Mount Kailash which was to our right (East face). It was Sunrise time. Mother Nature unleashed her beauty once again giving us a visual treat.

15-20 mins after sunrise

After some hard climbing, we reached Shivastal-a place where pilgrims leave some of their belongings as offerings and rightly so, we could see offerings scattered all over the place.

Shivastal

Now the trail was somewhat straight for a few kms. We could see people making their Dolma La assault at a distance climbing their way past ice and snow. We could see a number of small glacial ponds on our way towards Dolma La. We even saw a marmot (a rodent- rat/rabbit type) and many of them dwell in this region of Kailash.

Marmot, a rodent

Just before the final ascent to Dolma La began, we had to cross a small stream which was covered by ice in some places and we could hear the water flowing beneath. I had my camera ON all the time as I wanted to record each and every moment of this day’s trek.
I was lucky enough to witness a phenomenon which hardly any people get to see. The water that flowed below the icecover started turning into ice. Scientifically speaking, I saw crystallization taking place. This exhilarating moment took a heart beat away (6th time)Final push to Dolma La began. The 45 degree slope was long and ice covered at most places with rocks and boulders strewn all over. This was really tough and challenging. I was barely taking 5 steps with every push forward.

Climb before Dolma La

My dad and others were way way behind so much so that I could not even see them. I was walking with Karma Sherpa. East face of Mount Kailash was gradually getting blocked by other mountains in front and soon Kailash went out of sight and my cassette( in handycam) also reached its maximum limit. It took me a good 15 mins to load a new cassette. In the process, I had to remove my gloves and expose my hands to the extremely cold climate. I had a tough time handling the camera.( Dad had the still camera(normal cam, not digital) and he was finding it difficult to click pictures 🙂 ) Mount Kailash could not be seen thereafter.

Last view of Mount Kailash

As we moved up, we were gradually coming at par with the other snow covered moutains.

Before Dolma pass

We were now walking on ice, slipping several times. The formation of ice on the slope we were walking on was very strange. Small inverted cone like icy structures could be seen on both sides of the trail.

Dolma La could be sighted now and after having walked for almost 6 hours (1 km per hr), I was on top of the world. Dolma La-5630 m/ 18460 feet, the highest I have ever been to. Dolma La is a pass which is home to the shrine of Goddess Tara Devi-Goddess of love and compassion.

Prayer flags and Mani stones could be seen at many places atop Dolma La. We too tied a prayer flag which we had bought at Darchen as a mark of respect and leaving behind something during the trek. It was sheer bliss. 7th time beat skipped.

Dolma Pass-5630m / 18460 feet

We were told to leave the pass asap as staying at 18k feet for a long time could prove to be fatal. We had our packed lunch there after which we started proceeding downwards.After about 15 mins, we could see Gauri Kund( lake of compassion ) to our bottom right-a few 100 feet below. The lake was completely frozen except at its periphery. Some people could be seen walking straight down the slope to fetch water from Gauri kund.

Gauri Kund

We were now making our way down through big boulders and later on we crossed a glacier which was dirt free to quite an extent. Beyond the glacier was some soft snow which we encountered for the first time in the entire trip.

Climbing down from Dolma La(pic courtesy : Prachee)

The trail now was straight for a few kms after which it dropped again steeply leading to a tea shop below. It was around 3 pm when I reached the tea shop. I wanted to have something but I had only 1 or 2 yuans with me. The rest were with dad. A sherpa then offered me coke and I thanked him.My dad reached the tea shop after an hour or so. He was completely drained out by the sheer gain and drop of altitude.

It was too late to reach Zutrul phuk(4790m/15711 feet), our initial camp site. The guides therefore decided to pitch tents a few kms before Zutrul Phuk at Sabje Dratok wherever they could find flat ground.

The break that I took there at the tea shop gave me a burst of energy. I could walk at the same pace at which our guide was walking. The trail was straight but uneven with small marshy bumps. We were now in Lham Chu valley which had daunting sandstone walls on both sides. A small stream to our left accompanied us all the way. I reached the campsite in 1 hour. We( myself, guide and Vaishali) sat close to the stream, left our feet hanging in its cold waters. It was gr8. Soon others turned arrived; dinner and then sleep.26th June 2005 : 3rd day of Parikrama, Sabje Dratok to Darchen

3rd and final day trek of 16 kms got underway early in the morning. I continued my walking spree and made good progress with the Sherpas. Kept shooting all the while and I reached Zutrul Phuk pretty quickly. We stayed there for a while for others to catch us up. We had tea/ coke in a small shop there. Zutrul Phuk monastery, which is located on the sight of a cave where the Buddhist sage Milarepa camped in 1100 AD. The quiet solitude of this place makes one feel that not much has changed since then.

Zutrul Phuk Monastery

Day 3 trek trail( above 2 pics courtesy : Prachee)

Again continued trekking, and by noon, myself and the Sherpas had crossed a bridge over a small stream and again waited for others to arrive.We watched some people completing their Parikrama by prostration, lying full length on the ground so that their foreheads touched the earth with each forward stride. In this manner, each circuit takes them 13 days. Hats Off.

All of a sudden, our cook soon got to us and gave us terrible news. Vaishali had slipped and in the process her foot got soaked in water after which she was feeling terribly uncomfortable. She was in semi conscious semi unconscious state and had to be given shoulders for support while walking.

At the same time, Basant(guide) who had stayed back with the others( people who had not opted for the 3 day trek) in Darchen came and met us. We were surprised to see him and he said, “ I came from here-anticlockwise direction”. Shocking news again. An old lady had survived a heart attack at Darchen guest house. Luckily, the doctor was there by her side to bring her back to stable condition. The doctor was also among those who had opted out. Our main guide was calm about the things happening around but still one could sense the stress that he was going through at that time.

My dad also arrived and he left soon while I continued to wait with our main guide for Vaishali to arrive to see if I could be of any help. She finally came with 2 guides who were shouldering her. We then left that place and continued trekking for another 2 hours.
At around 3pm, we completed our Parikrama.

Parikrama ends

Thanked our porters for the wonderful job they did over the last 3 days and left for Darchen in Land cruisers. Vaishali was given oxygen for 2 hours after which she settled down.I thanked God that there were no more casualties. Tired and drained out, mentally and physically, the eventful day came to an end.

27th June 2005 : Darchen to Saga via Paryang

Next morning, we left Darchen and headed straight to Manasarovar. On the way we could see the South face of Mount Kailash again.At Manasarovar, we filled our bottles with the holy water which we took back for our relatives and others at home. We bid goodbye to the holy land for one last time.

I prayed and thanked Him for the wonderful journey, for the dip in the holy water, for the Parikrama, for the small uphill climb at the North face where I came face to face with Him and for being able to survive all odds, the scorching heat during the day time and numbing cold at night.A bow to the Lord and we again zoomed through the Tibetan Plateau to Saga skipping Paryang. Saga experienced hail that evening and it was quite a sight.

28th June 2005 : Saga to Nyalam

Left Saga for Nyalam. En route, we lost ½ hour fixing the tyre of a land cruiser which was completely thrown out of the axle. Fortunately, nothing serious took place.
Reached Nyalam by evening. We had a small condolence meeting that night for the uncle who couldn’t make it with us.
Tipping ceremony took place later. All the drivers and guides who were the backbone of our trip were tipped.

29th June 2005 : Nyalam to Dhulikhel via Zhangmu

Nyalam to border(friendship bridge) via Zhangmu and then across the border into Nepal after completing the formalities again. We boarded a mini bus from the border to Dhulikhel, a charming hill station. It was really beautiful and was the perfect place to take rest after our journey in Tibet.

30th June 2005 : Dhulikhel to Kathmandu

It took around 2 hours to reach Kathmandu from Dhulikhel. Rest of the day, we just wandered through the streets of Kathmandu.

1st July 2005 : Rest day at Kathmandu

The rest of the group members left for India while we (myself, dad and guide) stayed back in Kathmandu as we were heading into Tibet once again to explore Lhasa.

2nd,3rd,4th July 2005 : Lhasa

We boarded Air China flight to Lhasa, the capital of Tibet( Elevation-3650m /11972 feet). Landed at Gonggar airport which is around 100 kms from Lhasa city. Gonggar airport is the 2nd highest airport in the world. 1st one is in some other province of China.
Lhasa city was quite clean and the Chinese have always been ‘A one’ in infrastructure and that could be clearly seen in Lhasa. Wide roads, beautiful buildings and bridges.We saw the huge Potala palace, which is the summer residence of Dalai Lama and is a major landmark of the city. We also saw Barkhor Temple, Barkhor market, Drepung Monastery and Ganden Monastery(50 kms from Lhasa).

Potala Palace, Lhasa

5th july 2005 : Lhasa to Mumbai

Boarded Air China to Kathmandu from Lhasa which took us over the Himalayas.
Boarded Jet Airways to Delhi from Kathmandu.
Boarded Jet Airways to Mumbai from Delhi.Reached home at 8 pm after leaving Lhasa at 4 am. We had turned black and all at home were surprised to see the change in our skin colours. We were tanned by the blazing Sun and it took 2 to 3 weeks for the skin to regain its original colour.

Now, when I think of Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar, I feel fortunate, privileged and blessed to have undertaken this journey of a life time at such a young age. It has made me strong, mentally and physically. I thank Him for the journey and also thank Him for the 7 wonderful beat skipping moments 🙂

[ Published under the author’s permission ]

[ Original publication at www.kailashmanasarovaryatra.blogspot.com on September 13, 2007–the readers are requested to express their comments on the original Blog as mentioned above ]

Lake Manasarovar – Part 4

21st June 2005: Paryang to ManasarovarThe mood early in the morning was somber and people talked less often than before. It was pretty difficult to get over the whole incident and digest the fact that uncle was no more.
We left for Manasarovar 250 kms away via Mayum La pass(Elevation – 5151m/ 16895 feet).

The route to Manasarovar(map courtesy: ecotrek.com)

The last stretch was a small climb after which we got our first view of the Majestic Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar. It was the moment that we all were waiting for and was indeed a beautiful feeling. Prayer flags and Mani stones were placed (small area specially created) forming mounds as a mark of respect for the Holy Mountain and Lake. All vehicles reaching this point come to a halt only after circumnavigating the Prayer flags and Mani stones.

Prayer flags and Mani Stones

First view of Mount Kailash and Lake Manasarovar(pic courtesy: Prachee)

We waited there until all the 5 Land cruisers arrived (6th one had left for the border) and then headed closer to the lake. We pitched our tents on the banks, a good 500 meters away from the lake. I helped the guides in pitching the tents and got my muscles moving which had become stiff due to lack of activity.

Inside the tent

Later in the evening, I and my dad went to the lake and sprinkled some pure cold waters of Manasarovar praying for uncle’s soul to rest in peace.We were standing right in front of the Lake facing the Sun i.e west. To the south was Gurla Mandata and to the north was Mount Kailash(Abode of Lord Shiva) and in between the 2 giants was the colossal Lake Manasarovar. Elevation- 4550m/14924 feet.

Map showing Mount Kailash,Lake Manasarovar, Rakshas Tal and Gurla Mandata (map courtesy: ecotrek.com)

Lake Manasarovar

Gurla Mandata soaring over 7728m /25348 feet was spectacular and it was beginning to turn golden as the Sun began to set. While the 6714m/22022 feet Mount Kailash looked equally stunning. The lake or should I say sea, with small waves lashing the sand at our feet displayed various hues as one looked farther and farther away towards the horizon. Even the sky developed remarkable patterns with astonishingly beautiful colours leaving us flabbergasted. 4th time beat skipped 🙂

Gurla Mandata, Lake Manasrovar and Mount Kailash(pic courtesy:Prachee)

We turned around to see the Moon rise from east. Poornima-Full moon it was, that day. It started getting really cold and we returned back to our camp to have dinner.
That night, many ladies opted to stay out of their tents as they wanted to catch hold of a rare spectacle- the shooting star and they were fortunate to see one. I missed it 😦22nd June 2005: Rest Day at Lake Manasarovar

I wanted to see the Sun rise but unfortunately I couldn’t get up that early.

Sunrise (pic courtesy: Prachee, 2006 Yatra)

Bed tea was served and out I came from the tent. Brrrr….it was cold. I went into the kitchen tent to have some hot water and saw the cooks preparing breakfast for us. Those men were really terrific.

Campsite, Manasarovar

It was rest day at Manasarovar so that we could take the holy dip and perfom Pooja. Meanwhile, we also waited for our guide to return from the border. And late in the afternoon, they arrived. Seemingly stressed out and tired, I asked him, “how are u?” He gave me a smile and said, “don’t worry, I am alright.”It was now time to dive into the cold waters of the Lake. Basant(guide) said that we should have taken bath early in the morning when the water was less cold. As the day progresses the melt snow enters the lake making the water colder. I got a serious chill down my spine right there.

But nothing could be done now. I was the first to enter the lake while my dad kept shooting. The water was pretty ok when I first stepped into it and it was pretty shallow too. I had to immerse myself completely and there wasn’t sufficient water to do so. I walked deep inside the lake till I felt that the depth sufficed. I took 2 dips successfully and just couldn’t complete the 3rd one properly. I could sense my body temperature coming down drastically. I came out of the lake quickly and had myself covered in a towel for a few minutes. But naturally, I had goose bumps all over my body.

I then took over the camera and it was dad’s turn to take a dip. He managed to take 3 dips but none got him completely immersed…haha…at least I was better off on that front.

In the evening we performed Pooja sitting close to the lake facing Mount Kailash. Mount Kailash- The Abode of Lord Shiva-The Center of the World. The unruffled ambience evoked immense spirituality leading to ecstasy of salvation. It was an amazing feeling!

Pooja on the banks of Lake Manasarovar

Sunset was magnificent that evening. Nothing can beat high altitude Sunsets and Sunrises. Look at the first pic below. The peak peeping is Mount Kailash.

That day was Mr.Naik’s birthday. A pleasant surprise was waiting for us. We saw a big cake and a big pizza on the table inside the kitchen tent that night. Hats off to the cooks. They even managed to prepare a dessert in the cold desert 🙂

23rd June 2005: To Darchen after Parikrama of Lake Manasarovar Overnight change in weather caused frost to settle on our tents. The sunny and bright sky then, looked dull and gloomy now. It was overcast and peaks were shrouded in clouds.

We began circumambulating Lake Manasarovar on our cruisers and headed towards Darchen (30 kms from Manasarovar, Elevation- 4560m/14957 feet) which is the base camp of Mount Kailash. En route we saw Trugu Gompa, Rakshas Tal and Chiu Gompa.

There’s a small tract which goes uphill from where one can view both the lakes simultaneously. To the west of Manasarovar lies Rakshas Lake-the demon lake or Lake of Ravana. It is believed that even birds and animals don’t drink water from Rakshas Tal. Nevertheless, it looked beautiful and at that point of time it was much bluer than Lake Manasarovar.

Rakshas Lake

We then headed towards Chiu Gompa located on a hilltop. The climb was tough.

Lake Manasarovar from Chiu Gompa

It took around 4 hours to complete the circumambulation of 100 kms which is the circumference of Lake Manasarovar. Now we were getting closer to Darchen.

Approaching Darchen, Mount Kailash view

We lost some time tackling a small stream in which we were stuck for 15 mins. Like all cruisers, our cruiser too entered the stream but like all cruisers, our cruiser didn’t make its way out. We were stuck right in the middle of the stream.

Saachi (driver) opened the door. Without putting his feet in water, he made his way onto the bonnet, then stood on the mudguard, opened the bonnet, repaired the fault and came back inside the car the same way. Mind u, he had still not put his feet in water. Key turned, car started and we were out of the stream. Mi-nd-Bo-gg-li-ng stuff!Another cruiser broke down some kms before Darchen. It then had to be towed. We reached Darchen by 3 pm and stayed in guest houses.

View of Gurla Mandata from Darchen

There were quite a few shops in Darchen. Dad bought himself a stick for the trek, a torch and a monkey cap. It was really very cold there.
The weather was still really bad and it looked like it might start snowing any moment. We prayed for a bright sunny next day as we hit our beds.

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[ Published under the author’s permission ]

[ Original publication at www.kailashmanasarovaryatra.blogspot.com on September 13, 2007–the readers are requested to express their comments on the original Blog as mentioned above ]